Moving to Madrid - The Ultimate Guide
First things first – Congrats!! If you’re reading this you’ve probably just been accepted into NALCAP/CIEE/other various programs and you’re moving to Spain. You’re something most people only ever dream of, it's brave and admirable to give yourself this opportunity.
Here is a comprehensive guide of advice for what you should know for both work and play and every complication in between. This is my realest most authentic advice, not sugar coated with aspirational positivity (at least none that aren't true).
What are my qualifications for giving you advice? I moved to Madrid as an aux for two years and I had never even been to Spain. So trust me, you’re already more prepared than I was if you're reading this.
Living in Madrid is really quite easy. It’s the paperwork for your residency that will make you cry, sweat and maybe even bleed. Take a deep breath - if your TIE/Visa is stressing you out that means you're doing everything right! Spanish bureaucracy is built to weed out the weaklings. You can do hard things.
What do I pack?
It's hard to pack up our entire lives for a year and move across the country. So don’t. Pick your favorite outfits, your favorite pajamas that will keep you warm when you miss your mom and seasonal depression hits and you're having a breakdown about moving to another continent. You'll need those fuzzy socks when you're homesick. It's inevitable, don’t feel bad about it.
Try to leave every little thing at home. If you’re coming straight from college, I recommend leaving most of your crop tops at home because you’ll feel pretty out of place, spanish people tend to dress more modestly than the average american ‘going out’ outfit.
Zara, Bershka, Mango,Stradavarius, Ese o Ese, Massimo Dutti, Uniqlo, just to name a few. These are your new wardrobes. Leave room in your suitcase, leave your college outfits at home, the European glow up is real. Keep your sense of personal style of course but add some Spanish flair. It will grow on you, I promise.
El Rastro is another great place to shop, they have amazing secondhand leather jackets, vintage fur coats, affordable jewelry, home decor, and just about anything you can think of. Every Sunday in La Latina. You’re gonna want to take advantage. Leave those boots at home and get some real Spanish leather.
Working at a school, you’re gonna get sick ALOT. Those snotty kids will be contagious and you’ll use those sick days. That being said, pack some Nyquil and some Dayquil. The pharmacies over there just do not hit the same as those powerful American drugs. Those European standards are great when it comes to keeping chemicals out of the food, but I like my pharmaceuticals effective. With that in mind, bring any medications you might need, it's just easier than dealing with the Spanish system sometimes. Allergies in the spring are brutal and their allergies meds just do not compare to a good ole Allegra. Bring that too.
You’ll see a lot of warnings about pickpocketers. I was so scared I arrived with the ugliest funnypack/purse imaginable. It was not that serious. Yes, you may get pickpocketed but just be aware. I may be vain, but now I refuse to compromise fashion. You also stand out more as a tourist with that fanny pack or backpack you're wearing around the front. Just keep your eye on your purse and keep your phone in your hand and it will be okay.
Bring one charger adapter and then when you arrive, just buy the European plug. It's just easier. Keep your cord and get a few European boxes to plug in all your electronics. You’ll be here a while. Or order them on amazon while you're home but you really don't need the big bulky adapter with 27 ports.
Where should I live? Why is apartment hunting so miserable?
Welcome to the club. My first year in Madrid, I was homeless for the first three weeks. Pure hell is visiting apartment after apartment, thinking you found your dream piso in your ideal budget and location and then you find out they gave it to someone else. Ouch. It doenst help that youre american and your spanish is shit. Keep trying. Become religiously addicted to Idealista (this is your Zillow now). Someone will take pity on you eventually. My first apartment was a two bedroom in Delicias neighborhood that had no oven, no natural light, and the weirdest unfinished patio room that looked like a jail cell with turf. But I lived with my best friend and after weeks of hotel, airbnb, and couch surfing we felt like we were moving into the Four Seasons. You can make a home anywhere when you’re in the greatest city in the world. Go hang in retiro if your place is weird, there are plenty of cool spaces in Madrid to hang out in.
My second year, I hired a realtor and that's what I would advise anyone to do if you can. It’s worth it in the long run to save that money you would be spending on another week at a hostel, just call the realtor. They can also translate for you. Consider doing a shared apartment. My second year I just rented a room in a shared apartment, yes a little shady but Carlos ended up being a great landlord. Cash only, month to month, definitely evading taxes but that's none of my business. In exchange I got to live in Alonso Martinez (arguably the best neighborhood in the city) and I had a gorgeous balcony in my room.
My favorite neighborhoods are: Justicia (Alonso Martinez), Salamanca, La Latina, Chamberi. If you find an apartment in any of these zones, you’re in luck. You’ll find coffee shops you love around the corner, a cool bar with lots of young people, and a sense of lively vibrancy. Disclaimer- there are lots of lovely neighborhoods also a bit outside the city center, those are also an option. But I don't think you're moving to another country to live in the suburbs. Just my two cents. You should be at the club until 6am some nights and be able to walk home. Its cultural immersion.
In regards to living in the city center, don’t be alarmed if your commute is about an hour long. Very normal. You only work 16 hours a week. It's worth it to be in the city, where you’ll be going out and meeting people, versus the small town where your school likely is. You can spend a couple hours a day going back and forth for four days a week.
I'm nervous about work. How do I teach English?
Simple. You show up and you speak English to those kids. That's really all they expect of you. I graduated with a journalism degree and zero teaching experience. I was placed at an infantile school, much to my surprise my children couldn't even speak spanish. They were 2 years old and we just did story time. It worked out incredibly for me, but your job is to be an assistant, you're never supposed to be alone with the kids and your school will guide you on their expectations. Don't be afraid to overcommunicate and ask lots of questions. Ask for feedback. And I promise you Spanish people are direct and confrontational. If they think you should be doing something different, oh they will let you know. What can be considered rude in America is just customary in Spain. Don;t be offended, you get used to it and learn to appreciate honesty.
How do I afford to live and travel?
Arguably the toughest question yet. The 1,000 euros a month do not cover everything you want to do. As hard as they try to sell it and convince you that you can find a place for cheap and wine is only 3 euros and blah blah blah, no. It's really not realistic. If you want to live in the city (which I've made my opinion on this obvious by now), if you want to travel, if you want to go out and live your life, and go to the cafe, and go to the club- you need funds. After all, you're there for the cultural experience, not just to go to Mercadona every day and eat a can of beans in your room.(even tho mercadona is the best grocery store ever) You need to go out and have tapas, have a tinto de verano, try some vermouth and learn to love it. Try to come with as much money as possible. Get a second job before you go, it will be so worth it when youre living in spanish and stretching those dollars for much more than you could in the states. Save as much as you can. Madrid is an international hub with a great airport that can take you anywhere. You want to book those weekend trips, whether in Spain or elsewhere in Europe. You’re also there to travel.
A lot of people also pick up tutoring gigs from their school. This is a great option to make some extra cash on the side to support your terraza habit. There's tons of facebook groups, whatsapp group chats, just talk to people and ask around. Lots of people need English tutors, most likely they will come from your school. This is an added convenience if you can do it after school and you don't have to commute back and forth since most schools are outside the city center. Pick up the work but remember your worth, please don’t accept ten euros an hour. This is a great option to supplement your income since the residency visa you're on doesn't authorize you to work outside of your contract.
Ok now im here and comfortable, how do i make friends?
The age old question of making friends as an adult. Incredibly challenging since we don't have the luxury of the structured environment of childhood, classmates with intertwined schedules making friendship convenient and connections accessible. My best advice is to be out in the world. Go to the park, go to a cafe regularly, if you hear people speaking English say hi, they're probably an aux too. That orientation you have at the beginning of the year might be your best bet at making connections. Remember theres hundred of other auxes in Madrid also wondering how they're going to make friends. Madrid is a very international city with students and teachers alike. Put yourself out there. Joining those groupchats and facebook groups and you’ll eventually find your people. There are definitely some freaks out there but eventually you'll find nice, normal people to assimilate with. Most of my friends were American, I encourage you to try and make Spanish friends. Its kind of an impossible bubble to burst, especially if you don't speak Spanish. They are very community oriented which is great but it also means they've had the same friends since childhood and aren't looking to make new ones. My Spanish friends were the bouncers at the club and the promoters and hinge dates. Those connections might eventually lead you somewhere, especially if you stick it out and become fluent. Which leads me to my next point, LEARN SPANISH.
Aquí no hablamos inglés, aquí hablamos español.
Listen, I know it's hard and I know your brain hurts, but it will do you so much good to learn the language. Sign up for a language class if you skill are minimal. Duolingo is great but you need practical application. Sometimes we need a structured environment with accountability. In my case, my school was entirely Spanish speaking, except for me, so I had everyday exposure and forced Spanish speaking if I wanted to communicate with anyone at work. While in my first few months I came home exhausted and frustrated every day because I couldn't understand most things and my brain hurt from translating in my mind all day long. But then one day things started to click, and I started to say things correctly. I said most things incorrectly but eventually it stuck. And I'm not the best Spanish speaker to this day, but by my second year I could have full conversations with my coworkers that weren't surface level and even become friends with some of them. It opens up a new part of your personality, you can't access in your native language. Even now I sometimes dream in Spanish.
Sign up for those classes and don't automatically switch to english when you're at the restaurant and realize the waiter can speak english. Even if they speak back to you in english at the cafe, keep ordering in Spanish, it's worth it. You might feel silly but insist, how else are you going to practice if not in your everyday life?
Now I want to have fun, what should I do?
There are so many avenues for fun in Madrid. Whether you like to party or are more into wellness, this city is so diverse you can find it all.
Clubbing
My first ever club experience in Madrid was a little place called Kapital. And by “little” I mean a 7 story club with a reputation for being the most touristy. I recommend you go at least once. The crowd is very international, but you're the international one now so go find your people. It’s wild and disorienting, each floor has its own vibe and music. Go run around, have fun and then eventually we will move on to Spanish Clubs.
When you're ready to be an international local, start going to Vandido, Rubicon, Fitz, Victoria, Los Amantes, and my favorite- Istar. There is still a big international crowd but now its people who actually live in Madrid. Going out is a great way to meet people and get into the Madrid music scene.
Wellness
Join classpass. It's the best way to try different fitness classes and the best yoga studios for a more affordable price. My favorite studios: Gaia yoga and soul studio, Barquillo yoga, Asana Groove, Boutique barre, Fitclub Collective, and Olimpia.
For a luxurious spa treatment going to Halmma.
Food
If you're a foodie like me, you're in heaven. Madrid is an excellent food hub with international cuisine of every genre and price point. Check out my updated food guide for more details but here ill spitball you my favs:
Aarde
Li-onna
Fismuler
Casa Macareno
Los 33
Honest Greens
Ichikani
Akiro Hand Roll Bar
Chambao
Emma Cocina
El Viajero
Taberna de la Concha
La Vaca y La Huerta
Tiki Taco
Numa Pompilio
Vira Vira
Mercado San Ildefonso
Bars
Harrison 1933
Macera Taller
Glass Bar by Sips
Sala Equis
Gota wine bar
Jungle Jazz Club
Ficus
Barbara Ann
Cappucino
Casa Salesas
Casa Suecia (rooftop)
Salmon Guru
Culture
Retiro Parque
Prado Museo
Thyssen Museo
Reina Sofia Museo
Templo De Bod
Plaza de España
Plaza Mayor
Rio Parque
Casa de Campo
Parque de Siete Tetas
Cabeza
Royal Palace
Sorolla Museo
Bernabeu- Real Madrid Stadium
Transportation
Get your abono pass. It's 8 or 10 euros a month unlimited to go anywhere. If you’re like me and not from a big city where public transportation is normal, you might think of this as … unbecoming. I promise in europe its not. Working professionals and normal people of all ages take the subway. Save your money on taxis and take the Metro as much as possible. It grows on you. Madrid’s Metro is incredibly simple and convenient once you get the hang of it. Far superior to London’s Tube or Paris’ Metro.
Even better- take the bus. The bus is clean and air conditioned and likely there's a seat available.
If you do need to take a car somewhere- i recommend trying a good old fashioned taxi. You're in Europe and in a big city. Try out the cosmopolitan lifestyle and wave down oncoming traffic. These days you can apple pay quite literally everywhere, even in the taxi. I would suggest avoiding uber and trying bolt or freenow. Same goes with uber eats, try Glovo.
I want to go home. This sucks.
Normal amor. Everyone gets this feeling, whether it's a few days in, a few weeks in or a few months in, when the seasonal depression hits and you realize Spain is not as warm in the winter as you originally thought it would be. Persist. I didn’t even really like Madrid until six months later in April, when the gorgeous spring sun came out and made everything finally click. You’ll soon make your friends, find your people, learn how to order your favorite food in Spanish. Self- growth is vital and will benefit you in the long run. Once you cross that threshold you will realize what a crazy and special thing you accomplished. Comparison is the thief of joy and I promise you, there’s time to build your career, but there won’t always be time when you can be unapologetically selfish. One day you will have a partner or children or family issues or a plethora of other reasons not to be selfish. Take this time to be young and free and not worry so much about the future. As my two years concluded and I fell in love for the first time in Europe, I lived on my own for the first time in Europe, and I travelled and planned all on my own- I regret nothing. It was the greatest experience of my life and I envy you getting to start this chapter all over again. Make it worth it.
If you have any other questions or situations you want addressed please email me (livybby24@icloud.com) or dm me on instagram @oliviaaaababy. You got this babes.